Archive for the ‘South America without a clue’ Category
South America without a clue – Part 15
Episode 15
13th June 1986
We pack damp gear and climb for over an hour towards the Alto Plano. As the air thins my resting heart rate rises over 90 and my breathing becomes deeper and more rapid. Instead of getting warmer, the chill of the night continues into the day. Trees that stood tall and straight are now stunted oaks festooned with Spanish moss and lichen instead of bromeliads. There’s a disconcerting roaring sound of wind blowing across higher slopes cloaked in fast moving fog. Soon we are enveloped in fog and trees become weird misshapen shadows.
South America without a clue – Part 14
Episode 14
12th June 1986
There’s nothing like a great nights sleep after solid physical activity, namely hiking up hill all day. Despite that jaguar that turned out to be a chicken scratching around my tent, I had a great night’s sleep. Poking my head out of the cocoon that is my tent I see misty sunlight lighting up the canopy far above. I smile, its not raining.
South America without a clue – Part 13
Episode 13
11th June 1986
After passing a solid bridge over a challenging set of rapids I look up and it’s not pretty. The trail rises alarmingly and I can’t see the end. Roland aptly names this section the Thermometer. “If you make this bit, you will complete the trek”, says Roland. It is overcast and fine, the humidity thick as pea soup.
South America without a clue – Part 12
Episode 12
11th June 1986
There’s a loud knock on the door. A sleepy glimpse at my watch indicates 4.30am. The hotel staff kept to their promise, although I’m sort of wishing they had forgotten. We quickly pack and set out on foot into the predawn darkness to a nearby bridge where we are to meet the bus to San Gerardo.
Standing around in anticipation, the humid air and the dank odour of tropical vegetation brings back memories of holidaying in Vanuatu, seven years ago. A plump middle aged lady arrives and engages Roland in rapid fire conversation in Spanish. I have no hope even remotely understanding more than the odd word.
South America without a clue – Part 11
Episode 11
10th June 1986
Leaving San Jose today, so this morning I cash some traveller’s cheques for a fist full local cash. Cashing travellers cheques in rural Costa Rica could be a hit and miss affair. I then walk the crowded streets to Roland’s herbalist store. It’s only a couple of kilometres and hardly enough training for what lies ahead. It seems that most of the one million people that live in the city are out and about today.
South America without a clue – Part 10
Episode 10
9th June 1986
When you have morbid thoughts about lack of money, a good night’s sleep is very unlikely. Despite exactly that happening, I awoke in a pretty good frame of mind after sleeping on it. It’s my last day in San Jose before doing a spot of mountain climbing in the rain. I decide it would be a good idea to step out and explore the city on my own. Let’s face it, most of my travels in South America will be on my own so I better get used to it.
South America without a clue – Part 9
Episode 9
8th June 1986
A bit bleared eyed, I walk out into the foyer to find Ed and Andy already waiting at reception. The mission today is, get to know San Jose. On a grey but thankfully dry day we venture out into the streets to absorb that heady Latino ambiance.One of the recommendations I get on a regular basis is to leave the camera firmly hidden out of sight when roaming the streets of San Jose or any Latin American city for that matter. Now this puts me in somewhat of a dilemma. The problem is I want to build up a classy portfolio of Latin American images to tempt fussy editors of newspapers and magazine publishers back home.
South America without a clue – Part 8
7th June 1986 (continued…)
Episode 8
It may be a stretch calling this Chinese cuisine, but the mix of vegies and noodles at $1US a serve is certainly great value. While paying at the counter, my peripheral vision picks up movement. Looking down a hand quickly retreats from my back pocket. I glare at a sheepish looking local bloke seated at a nearby table. I warn Andy to stay alert.
South America without a clue – Part 7
7th June 1986
Episode 7
My aim while in Costa Rica is to climb the nation’s highest mountain and Central America’s second highest peak, Mount Chirripo. Now I must concede here, I’m no Tim McCartney Snape when it comes to mountain climbing. And by bagging this peak, I’m not about to enter the heady heights of the mountain climbing elite either. Despite not being a so called technical climb, this is not a climb I will take lightly.
Mount Chirripo at its summit is an air thinning 3820 metres above sea level. Moist tropical air slams into its steep cloud forest flanks resulting in more than 3900 mm or 150 inches of rain a year. With all my trekking experience within largely dry, warm and flattish Western Australia, Chirripo is making me a little nervous.
South America without a clue – Part 6
6th June 1986
Part 6
The western approach to Miami Airport offered fine views of the massive Everglades. On landing a Concorde is refuelling, wow! Now a six hour wait for a flight to Costa Rica. This gives me a chance to absorb some Latin American culture before leaving the US mainland.
Miami airport is a bilingual world with just as many people speaking English as Spanish, announcements in both languages and signage in both languages. My six hours of relative boredom becomes a great last minute opportunity to brush up on my Spanish.